Smallbore Cowboy, tips on how to shoot master scores.

I am happy to see so many folks shooting one category.  I think more shooters in one category makes it generally more interesting.  Shooters have something in common with one another and can swap tips and find out what works and what does not.

My effort here is aimed at helping those who want to improve their SBCB results.  With some focus and attention, I think the Cowboy Smallbore Grand Slam pin is the most achievable of all the Grand Slam pins.  So, with that in mind, here are a few tips I after my multi year pursuit of the grand slam pin..

Pair gun and ammo.
Adopt sight system you can see
Make sure your sight system is repeatable
Document sight settings and Sight Picture for each animal
Practice squeeze and hold post break.
Get a spotter to work with you at the match.

Pair gun and ammo: 
You need to do this with every gun and the no frills lever or tube fed pump gun is no exception.  There are two options.  Best option, put a scope on it and find the best ammo at 100m.  You can buy a little weaver rail for small money that lets you put a scope on a Marlin 39A, the most common smallbore cowboy gun..  The Winchester 9422 is similar but requires "tip-off" sights.  If you can't put a scope on it, you are going to need to be more creative and dedicated.  Find a sight system that lets you focus on a paper bullseye.  Target (globe) inserts are a good solution and are darn near as precise as a scope.  I will add, lever guns are not as "bench friendly" as a bolt gun.  Tip: Best accuracy can be had off the bench when the rifle is supported under the action, not the barrel/tube magazine.  Let's face it, that ram is not all that small.  But, YOU need to be confident your ammo will give you a group no larger than 3 MOA at 100m.  Until you finalize on your rimfire ammo, there is no reason to pursue step 2.  This might take three trips to the range to ensure you have the right solution.  Once found, buy 2x the amount of ammo you think you need.  That ammo is then dedicated to that rifle.  When I bought my ammo for my gun I also bothered the clerk at Riley's to ensure it was all the same lot as what I settled on.  It's just one more variable to rule out.


Adopt a sight system you can see.
Somewhat subjective.  But, if you are not happy with the sight picture and your ability to see what you are aiming at, you will only frustrate yourself.  Factory post? Globe with insert?  Post with fiber optic?  Upside down or right side up post?  Size of rear eyepiece? Rectangular eyepiece?  Everyone has different eyes and I cannot suggest what path to take.  I like having a globe front sight.  Yet my top score was with a simple fiber optic post.  Do some research, test out what others are using.  Make a decision and then stay the course for at least a season.  Search Norman Wong or go HERE to find a start to a long list of resources you can review and work with your eye care professional.

Make sure your sight system is repeatable.
Iron sights are no different than scopes.  They have to be repeatable.  The good news, they are 100% mechanical unlike a scope which is both an optic and a mechanical device.  With iron sights, it is their only function to move the rear eyepiece up and down.  Still, some of the new price point offerings are not made with the care of earlier sights.  Test your setup between chickens and rams and make sure nothing strange s going on. For those with the tools, try THIS.  I use an old Lyman 66MC made of 100% steel.  You can do whatever you want.  It was just one less variable.

Document sight settings an sight picture for each animal.

0 --><-- 30 and green dot

Here is where the rubber meets the road.  Here is what I did.  I made stencils for each animal out of luan.  Buy some black spray paint and use the stencils to make paper targets on white paper or corrugated.  Start with chickens working on just one animal per visit.  I would have a spotting scope or binoculars, a printed 1/5th chicken, pen and I will write and number each shot on my paper.  Take 10 shots and find the sight picture that is dead nuts on.  Look at your penned hits and see if it is telling you anything.  On average, too high?  Too left?   Adjust to a "zero/zero" setting and use nail polish on screw head if need be to ensure you can always return your gun to a chicken zero at 40m.  Take detailed notes of the sight picture that works for your setup, your eyes.  If that is a sliver of white under the animal than so be it.  Only you can find that sight picture that your eyes and brain can easily find and then execute.  Don't feel like there is some rule you have to follow.  Write a few sentences capturing what gives you center hits.  I was always amazed at how I would write a short note and come match day, I would have an "oh ya, right, I remember now" moment and kick myself for missing the first two chickens. 

Repeat at each animal.  You can do what you want but I strongly suggest working on just one animal per visit.  I practice belt and suspenders with my Lyman 66MC.  I note the number of clicks as well as what my pointer should be pointing at on the knob.  My nob has numbers and I write down via a small picture what number or hash mark the pointer should be pointing at.  Seems silly but it works for me.  If nothing else I don't doubt my settings, I can just doubt my shooting ability!

Practice:
Once you have your gun & ammo, sight settings, sight picture it is time to practice.  Stating the obvious I know.  Pick the animal that is giving you fits and practice that distance and only that distance.  Zero in on sight picture and good breaks.  Dry fire using the safety or just pull back the hammer and take 2 dry fires on each spent case and then cycle the lever for a fresh round.  Flinch?  Pulling not squeezing?  All the basics.


The match, it's all about the spotta!
Find a like minded shooter who wants to improve.  You can't play this game without a spotter.  PERIOD!  To the shooter, without a spotter all you know is the animal fell and therefore all you can do is try to repeat the sight picture.  It is possible the animal was hit on the foot and that feedback in invaluable as you prepare for the next shot.  When your buddy goes through, return the favor.  The sport is more fun when you can help your fellow shooter.

May a grand slam pin be in your future!

Entry level scopes for the scoped silhouette game

For the new shooter it can be a bit daunting when you look at the additional cost of a scope.  Scopes are like about anything else marketed in the mega market called the United States of America.  It's all about price point and leveraging brand image to maximize profits.  As a result, things are pretty murky when you try to figure out what is quality and what is not quality in today's market. One of the top brands has come under fire for quality issues.  Sure, their lifetime warranty will ultimately result in a satisfied customer but what a hassle.  Other top name brands have been gobbled up by holding companies and who knows if a Weaver is similar to the Weaver of yesteryear.  There is no clear decision even for the experienced shooter.  Ok, Nightforce is still a quality scope but who wants to spend $1,200.  Besides, they are too heavy for this game.

With all this marketing pressure the consumer is the victim.  My read today, seek out the old stuff.  The Japanese went after the German optics manufacturers where have historically the best lens grinders.  Early Tasco, Weaver and even Bushnell optics made in Japan are decent.  Taiwan and Chinese scopes are inexpensive but often disappoint.

Early Tasco World Class scopes are great.  But the name is also used on Chinese mfg scope.  Early Weaver scopes are an option.  Early Sightron scopes are too but they have developed quite a brand name and even their early scopes are selling for more than their original list.  The Bushnell 4000 and now 4200 Elite are excellent scopes.  Yes, I am beating around the bush.  So here are a few to look at.

Weaver KT-15 is a fixed 15 power scope.
Bushnell Elite 4200 6-24x40.  Excellent optics and mechanics.
Sightron SII 6-24x42 pre expensive "Big Sky" series.
Tasco World Class and other Japanese mfg scopes.

What do all the numbers mean?

In general, anything before the X stand for power of magnification.  6-24x means it is a variable power scope and the range of magnification goes from 6 to 24.  The number following that is the size of the "objective" or the the "light gathering" lens.  The larger the lens, the brighter the image you see.  I would try to be 40mm when you get into higher magnification. 50mm is too much.  I would not go below 32mm.  Some scopes just say 15x or 12x or 24x.  This means they are a "fixed power" scope.  In the silhouette game, it is all about repeatability and the less moving parts the better.  Many serious shooters will shoot a fixed power scope.

I am not well versed in the lower power 3-9x scopes.  But the rule of where they were made I believe still holds true.   I have a Bushnell Pronghorn 3-9x made in Taiwan on the purple youth gun and I am always amazed how it is both clear and repeatable every time I pull it out.  It just plain works.  It was given to me. I am sure they are under $100 used.  I guess that is a one thumbs up for Taiwan.

NH Silhouette clinic wrap up

Based on what I hear back from folks the first annual Silhouette Clinic was a big hit.  Everyone, whether a veteran competitor wanting to learn more about silhouette or the new shooter looking for a way to enjoy shooting with others, had a good time.

Given that we shoot so many different silhouette categories simultaneously, it is a daunting task to figure out what is what.  I think that we have 12 shooters who could explain it to anyone that asks.

Even more exciting we had youth as well as some very interested new shooters.  Not new to shooting, but new to Silhouette as a shooting sport.  I like this picture because it shows two new shooters, young and old, with some pretty darn good form just after half a day of coaching.  They were even hitting the animals and dropping them to the earth!

The Purple Gun:  Folks asked what it is.  Well, it is home made stock out of plywood and bondo.  The problem with youth guns with scopes is trying to help them get their head in the right position.  This stock has a high comb to help compensate for their smaller head.  I made the pistol grip too long and would shrink it to fit smaller hands next time.  I was not thinking.  The action is a bone stock CZ452 Scout.  I cannot say enough good things about the Scout.  Of the many recent offerings, it is the ONLY youth option unless you have more money than sense.  I would put this barreled action in an adult stock and shoot it.  I bought mine new in 2003 for $200. No idea what they are today.

Best birthday present ever, family help with my hobby!

I am pretty blessed!  My lovely spouse attacked our garage that was filled with junk that I just can't bear to throw out.  So, at the end of two trips to the dump yesterday, in the rain, I had a pile of "junk wood" in the driveway. 

I survey the mess and realized I had a convergence of need.  Get rid of wood via wood stove or utilization.  I had a fellow shooting buddy help me with some carpentry work.  He chided me over my poorly performing vintage Craftsman table saw.  In short, he got me to look at things anew and I found the problem.  Worn set screws.  Now, with his help, the saw works like a champ.

Last night my daughter came out and asked if I needed any help.  Well, we decided I would cut on the table saw and she would pre-drill everything and started the screws.  She made nice sets of pieces, prepped them, cut out the "hooks" and all Dad had to do was run the drill with his "bigger" hands.  2 hours later we had 7 new frames ready for Saturday.....all I need is corrugated.

As a bonus, the trimming went right into the wood stove and I melted enough range lead to make 20 lbs of ingots.  And yes, it was 90 degrees in the shop with windows and doors open!  DRY HEAT which felt kinda nice after a wet Monday!

One more item off the list for Satuday!  Hope to see you all there!  These frames are designed to hang on all Pioneer stands.  They hook onto the 2" wide bars and support paper once the corrugated is stapled on.  The best practice is on paper, not steel.  That is the only way to truly see where your bullet went.

Pioneer May 19th Silhouette Clinic Outline

Saturday May 19th Schedule

8:30    Pioneer Clubhouse Open (rain or shine)
9:00    Clinic begins
11:30  Burgers on grill.  Please bring your own drinks
12:30  How to sight in or "zero" your firearm at Chickens and so on...
           How to find the best ammo for your gun
           How to test a scope by shooting a box
           How to shoot off hand. 
           (There will be four veteran shooters at four stations demonstrating these topics)
1:30    New shooters buddy up with veterans to shoot for fun until....

Why a Silhouette Clinic?

The objective of this "first annual" silhouette clinic is to introduce new shooters to the fun sport of silhouette.  The best way to describe silhouette is organized plinking.  The sport can be an outlet for a number of interests.  You will find folks there who enjoy old lever guns.  For others it is an opportunity for a family to shoot.  For a husband and wife to share an interest.  Still others enjoy competition, to each their own.  We all have fun.


The objective of this clinic is to demystify what typically goes on three Sundays every month during the summer and let new shooters ask questions in a informal setting without timers and guns going off.

What We'll Cover

Here is an outline which will be updated right up to the 19th.  Consider it a "work in process" as I get input and come up with other ideas.

• Introductions and what you want to get out of the day
• Silhouette history
• Why all off hand?
• Why different types of targets and various sizes?
• Where to begin? (Family, competitive shooting, use what you own, try something new, cowboy/lever gun, improve your marksmanship, or just do it)
• Equipment options (Rifle or pistol or both)
• Caliber options
• NRA Classification book and pursuit of a Grand Slam
• Ammo is akin to women's shoes.  Vast selection and you can't every have too much!
• Sight systems.  (Iron sight vs scoped gun)
• Safety.  (Ears & Eyes & lead management.  OBI/ECI etc)
• QUESTIONS
• Course of fire and the Range officer.
• Primer on how to shoot off hand. 
• The role of a spotter or coach
• The importance of learning how to 'call your own shot'
• How to get your equipment (firearm) ready for a match.
• Want to really immerse yourself, a binder for each gun you want to shoot.
• Matching ammo to the gun (rimfire) or hand load development, cast or jacketed.
• How to practice or what to practice.
• QUESTIONS
• How you can help the game and the clubs that make the sport possible.
• MORE QUESTIONS

HEAD OUTSIDE to the covered Silhouette range or indoor 50' range as a last resort if a washout.

What should a new shooter bring?

Firearms: First, if you don't own a firearm that is not an issue.  I expect there will be some "loaner" equipment available and at least two youth sized guns.  Now, if you have some equipment bring it in your car, cased and unloaded.  We will review the proper method to remove your firearm from the car and bring it to the safety table.  Although the intent is not to make this an antiques road show, if you want some advice on how to best utilize what you own, bring it along and I suspect a veteran shooter will be more than happy to counsel you.  So yes, if you own something, bring it along.  If you are unsure or uncomfortable about how to handle it or use it, ask a volunteer for getting it out of your car.  When in doubt, ask.  Throughout this entire day there are no dumb questions!

Safety equipment:  Even if you don't have a firearm, coming with your own pair of safety glasses and ear plugs is HIGHLY recommended.  Visit Riley's Sports Shop as they support our club, or the sporting goods store of your choice.  If you are bringing a youth member, they make nice youth sized safety glasses which work much better than generic safety glasses.  If you bring a firearm, please also bring an OBI (open bolt indicator) also called ECI, (empty chamber indicator).  If you don't have one, you can buy one at the club for $1, our cost.

Ammo:  If you are bringing a firearm.  Centerfire:  Factory ammo is overkill for this sport but you have to start collecting brass sometime soon.  100% of all centerfire competitors reload their own ammo.  We will not have centerfire ammo available but we can advise you as to what your options will be.  Rimfire:  Bring your favorite.  If you don't have one, I find Federal Lighting 22LR to be a good start.  We will also have some donated CCI Standard Velocity ammo for you to test thanks to Riley's.  In short, bring what you have and we'll tell you whether you are good to go or not.  At my first match, my mentor reviewed what I brought and politely told me to put it all away and we used his gun for the session.  12 years later my ego is just fine.  Besides,  I learned a lot more that we would have trying to sort out my equipment.

Pre clinic day Questions: you can ask them here in this blog.  Or, email me at durantjud---yahoo----com  if you want to call me call 6ix 0ero 3hree 7even 4our 6ix 3hree 0ero 4our 0ero.

Please, let me know if you plan to attend.  Not required but helpful.

JD

PS:  All this fun on Saturday will be followed by a real silhouette match on Sunday where you can come and shoot, which after Saturday, you should be more than ready.